Brobee Sweater

Brobee Hooded Sweater

© 2010 by Kate Schoren – This pattern is based on the character Brobee from Nick Jr’s Yo Gabba Gabba. This pattern is not for sale, and sweaters made from this pattern are not to be sold. For personal use only.

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The inspiration:

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The less-than-thrilled recipient:




MATERIALS
Size US 7 needles (circular and DPNs)
Size US 4 needles (DPNs)
350 yards worsted-weight yarn in MC (light green)
140 yards worsted-weight yarn in CC1 (dark green)
20 yards worsted-weight yarn in CC2 (red)
14" separating zipper
Stitch markers
Waste yarn
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Sewing needle and thread
Polyfil or scrap yarn

MEASUREMENTS

Gauge: 4.5 sts and 6 rows = 1" in st st
Chest circumference: ~24" (loose fit for 18-24 months)

ABBREVIATIONS

1x1 rib -- *k1, p1* repeating
k2tog -- knit two stitches together
p2tog -- purl two stitches together
pm -- place marker
st st -- stockinette stitch
st(s) -- stitch(es)
tbl -- through the back loop

NOTES

Body and arms are worked in 10-row stripes of MC and CC1. Once body and sleeves are joined, all knitting is in MC.

When working first row of new color in stripe, I suggest knitting all stitches (even those that should be purled in 1x1 rib) to prevent weird color bumps of the color not being used.

BODY

Using tubular cast on and size US 7 needles, cast on 56 sts in CC1. This will result in 112 sts once cast on is complete. Decrease by 1 st on last row by k2tog last 2 sts -- 111 sts. If using a different method, simply cast on 111 sts.
Work in 1x1 rib for 6 rows. (Work 8 rows if using a different cast on).
Row 1: *K1, p1* twice, k to last 4 sts, *p1, k1* twice.
Row 2: *P1, k1* twice, p to last 4 sts, *k1, p1* twice.
Change to MC. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five times (10 rows).
Change to CC1. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five times (10 rows).
Work in 10-row stripes until there are three complete stripes of CC1 and 2.5 stripes of MC (stop after row 6 of third MC stripe) -- about 8.5". Cut yarn.

SLEEVES (make 2)

Using tubular cast on and size US 7 needles, cast on 12 sts in CC1. This will result in 24 sts once cast on is complete. If using a different cast-on method, simply cast on 24 sts.
Work in 1x1 rib for 6 rows. Work 8 rows is using a different cast-on method.
Transfer sts to three DPNs. Join in the round and pm. (Seams of cuffs will be sewn later.)
***Remember to change colors every 10 rounds.
Work in st st for 4 rounds. (Change to MC after 2 rounds of st st.)
Increase 2 sts on Round 5 as follows: K1, inc, k to last st, inc, k1 -- 26 sts.
Work even in st st but inc as in Round 5 on Rounds 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, and 35 -- 38 sts.
Work even in st st until sleeve measures same length as body. Now work 4 more rounds in MC to complete a 10-round stripe -- about 9".
Place last 5 sts before marker and first 4 sts after marker on waste yarn. Cut yarn.

JOIN BODY AND SLEEVES

With right (knit) side of body facing and using MC, *k1, p1* twice, k 19, place 9 sts on waste yarn, pm, k 29 sts from Sleeve 1, pm, k 47 across back of body, place 9 sts on waste yarn, pm, k 29 sts of Sleeve 2, pm, k 19, *p1, k1* twice -- 151 sts.

Joining Body and Sleeves: All live stitches have been knit onto circular needles. White yarn is waste yarn, holding 9 sts from each sleeve and 9 stitches on each side of the body. When directed, place these stitches back on needles and graft together for a seamless underarm.

Work back and forth in st st, maintaining 1x1 rib at edges, 3 rows.

Decrease as follows on every RS (knit) row: *Work as established to three sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk.* Repeat between *’s until last four stitches and *p1, k1* twice.

Next row: Work even.

Repeat these two rows (one with decreases and one even) until there are 5 sts remaining from each sleeve, 23 sts on the back, and 11 sts on both left and right fronts – 55 sts. You should end with a purl row.

Place a safety pin or stitch marker at each edge. This marks the beginning of the hood.

HOOD

Bind off 2 sts, knit to last 4 sts, *p1, k1* twice – 53 sts.

Bind off 2 sts, purl to end – 51 sts.

Row 1: Knit 25, inc 1, pm, k1, pm, inc 1, k to end.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K to marker, m1, slip marker, k1, slip marker, m1, k to end

Rep the last two rows 6 more times – 65 sts.

Work in st st for 40 rows – about 8.5 - 9”.

Short-row shaping:

· Row 1: Knit 38, k2tog tbl, turn

· Row 2: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, turn

· Row 3: Sl 1, k12, k2tog tbl, turn

· Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 14 sts remain. DO NOT CUT YARN.

Pick up and knit 52 sts along side of hood. (For me, this was one stitch for every row). Turn.

Purl across all stitches, then pick up and purl 53 sts – 119 sts.

Work on 1x1 rib for 4 rows – about 1”.

Bind off in pattern.

POINTS (make three)

Using size US 4 needles, cast on 21 sts in CC2. Tubular cast on not recommended for this step. Leave a long tail at the cast-on edge and it can be used to sew points onto sweater. Place on DPNs (7, 7, 7) and join in the round.

Knit 10 rounds in st st.

Round 1: *k5, k2tog* to end.

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: *K4, k2tog* to end.

Round 4: *K3, k2tog* to end.

Round 5: *K2, k2tog* to end.

Round 6: *K1, k2tog * to end – 6 sts.

Cut yarn and draw it through remaining sts.

Stuff with Polyfil or scrap yarn. Pin points in place on top of hood (use picture as reference). Sew in place.

FINISHING

Move stitches from waste yarn onto needles. Graft (Kitchner stitch) underarms, where body and sleeve stitches have been on hold.

Sew bottom edges of the hood to the two bound-off stitches at either neck edge. See below.

Sew cuffs.

Sew zipper into place.

Weave in ends.

See this gap? Fix it. This is the notch where the hood ribbing (top) and cardigan edge must be sewn together.

I would love comments, suggestions, and links to any finished projects.